By using newest materials and a conventional technique, it’s attainable to repair plaster ceilings that are cracking and delaminating. Here is a step-by-step guide to steer your through how to repair plaster ceilings in your old house.
What old-house owner doesn’t have a cracking or drooping plaster ceiling in want of repair somewhere? Besides the traditional wear and tear of living, plaster-and-lath ceilings are at the mercy of gravity, and that they will take only numerous water leaks and structural movements before they turn away from the framing.
The good news is, it’s attainable to repair and rescue plaster ceilings from any damage.
We’ve got successfully reattached many old ceilings by injecting adhesive between the plaster and slat wherever the keys (anchors) have broken away over time.
Though variations of this method aren’t new–texts from the 1920s suggest liquid sulfur as an adhesive–we use newest materials that are simple to handle and inflict least damage to sound plaster.
With these ways and smart tool skills it’s attainable to revive the integrity of plaster ceilings for several a lot of years of service.
Sizing-up the Ceiling
After correcting no matter problem created the ceiling loose in the 1st place (leaky roof, structural alterations), the first step is to assess however far the ceiling has force away.
Gently press on the surface and decide the quantity of play between plaster and slat. Hopefully, you’ll feel it pull away into place like a puzzle piece sliding into its own distinctive spot.
If there are broken keys or trash within the method, the plaster can resist seating, and it’ll feel and sound “crunchy” akin to breaking eggshells or crushing popcorn.
Don’t force it into place or a lot of plaster could break. Instead, just gently encourage the plaster with the flat of your hand.
If the separation is slight—say, between 1/4″ and 1/2″—good reattachment is likely because the plaster will typically push back into place solid and flat against the slat.
If the plaster sags 1/2″ to 1″ from the slat, there’s often too much trash (broken keys, years of silt) between the plaster and slat for success.
Remove the Debris
Unless you’ll vacuum out all this debris from the top, reattachment is maybe not a choice.
Often we discover that the worst a part of the ceiling has too much debris, and that we need to take away this section, reattach the sides, then infill the lost elements with new plaster.
Plaster that’s soft and breakable won’t delay during the pushing and drilling and has got to be removed as well.
Removing areas of broken plaster—particularly in a very ceiling—will encourage additional plaster to come down, particularly if you utilize a chisel-edged tool. (We call this the domino-delamination impact.) to manage this tendency we tend to recommend carefully marking out your repair set up, then removing any areas with a sharp utility knife. Mark with a lumber crayon or pencil; a pen can bleed through your paint soon.
Find The Wood Laths
The holes you bore to inject the adhesive should be directly at a lower place the wood lath—not the areas between the lath—so that the adhesive will bond to one thing solid.
If you’ve got removed any plaster, or mammary gland out a crack for repair, then you’ll be able to see the positions of the slat. in an exceedingly reattachment-only repair, however, finding slat is essentially hunt-and-peck.
Sometimes, if the plaster isn’t too thick, you’ll be able to stand back and appearance for ghosts or shadows of the slat showing through the end coat.
Once you’ve got a solid fix on one slat, assume that the remainder of the lathing is one 1/2″ to 2″ wide and spaced about 1/4″ to 1/2″ apart.
If you’ve got associate degree infill space that desires reattachment at its edges, mark for injection sites one 1/2″ to 2″ back from the sides.
If you’re solely reattaching plaster, set up for injection holes each 3″ to 4″, no quite 6″ apart.
Drill Injection Holes
We bore injection holes with a 1/4″ inorganic compound bit. creating these holes presents a second challenge as a result of it’s vital to bore solely through the injection surface.
As an example, if you’re reattaching from the plaster aspect, you need to bore fully through the plaster, however stop before going into the wood slat.
Conversely, if you’re reattaching from on top of, you wish to bore through the slat, however stop before the plaster. By taking note to the dynamic resistance of the materials on the bit, it’s potential to develop a sorrow these totally different layers.
Vacuum Once More
After you’ve got bored your injection holes, you wish to vacuum out the rubble and drilling dust. Older plaster is soft, therefore take care to not suck it off the ceiling with the vacuum! Place your hand close to the opening to carefully support the plaster whereas you vacuum victimisation the opposite hand.
Don’t push the plaster keep a copy into place, however; the void can enable the vacuum to drag a number of the rubble out through the opening.
If you’ve got access from on top of, you’ll be able to vacuum a lot of of the silt and rubble. take away keys that are visibly loose or broken yet. Use a wet/dry look vacuum designed to handle the fine dirt. Plaster can kill a family vacuum briefly order.
Next, wet the injection holes by either spraying down the slat with a squirt bottle or running up into the trained holes from the plaster surface. Wetting encourages the adhesive to travel farther once it’s compressed and can conjointly slow the drying time slightly for a stronger bond.
Inject The Adhesive
Finally it’s time to inject adhesive. we tend to use a water-based, latex product that’s truly a vinyl floor adhesive. However, any good-quality latex or acrylic adhesive will work (for example, Liquid Nails or floor adhesive). you’ll be able to purchase these merchandise at construction provide homes and hardware stores in caulking tubes for little comes or five-gallon pails for big jobs.
We use a caulking gun with the tip move work snugly in our 1/4″ holes, and inject the adhesive till the plaster moves ever slightly (one squeeze of the typical caulking gun is sometimes enough).
If you inject an excessive amount of adhesive you may truly push the plaster off the ceiling. As you inject, follow at the side of a moist sponge to take away the surplus adhesive that leaves the holes after you remove the nozzle.
Complete your entire series of holes, then return over the plaster with a clean, damp sponge to get rid of any glue residue. Follow identical method if you’re performing on the spline aspect, going away adhesive wipe-up as an optional step.
Secure The Plaster With Forms
Once we’ve got injected adhesive into the repair space, we tend to push the plaster into place against the spline and secure it with forms. This step spreads the adhesive in order that it bonds to a larger extent.
We use versatile plyboard squares (1/2″ to 3/8″ thick) coated with a layer of sheet synthetic resin. don’t underestimate the importance of this layer of poly; if you forget it you’ll glue the plyboard to the ceiling and take all the plaster with it if you conceive to take away the shape. (Sound like first-hand experience?) Last, we tend to secure these in situ with screws or wood shores running to the ground, then permit the adhesive to line up for twenty-four hours.
Screws Versus Shores
Screws save the time of fitting picket shores and keep the work space clear, however they’ll injury the plaster and leave a lot of holes to fill later. Shores are a lot of applicable for fragile, decorative, or museum-quality plaster, and that we use them for each plaster-side and lath-side reattachment.
Remove The Forms
The next day you’ll be able to take away the forms. wherever a number of the plastic sticks to adhesive injected from the plaster aspect, merely scrape it off with a spatula.
The adhesive continues to be soft round the holes at now, however has got wind of enough to get rid of the forms.
On the plaster aspect, scrape off the dried adhesive residue with a drywall or spatula, then use the corner of a spatula to carefully scallop out excess adhesive showing from the opening.
Fill the Injection & Screw Holes
As it dries totally over another day some (depending on heat and humidity) the adhesive can any retreat into the opening, going away a transparent area to fill.
We tend to sometimes fill the injection and screw holes with Durabond forty five (sandable), mixed to the consistency of paste, as a result of this product includes a fast set-up time and dries terribly exhausting with negligible shrinkage.
However, any vinyl paste filler or plaster/joint compound may be used for this step. Usually, it takes 2 to 3 applications to fill the holes flush with the ceiling, relying upon the merchandise. aside from this, the ceiling is currently reattached and prepared for a skim-coat of plaster or a contemporary coat of paint.
- Adhesive Tube
- Vacuum Cleaner
- Sizing up the Ceiling
- Remove the Debris
- Find The Wood Laths
- Drill Injection Holes
- Vacuum Once More
- Inject The Adhesive
- Secure The Plaster With Forms
- Remove The Forms
- Fill the Injection & Screw Holes
By; Peter and Noelle Lord, operators of Peter Lord Plaster & Paint, Inc., specialize in the preservation and restoration of historic surfaces and all plaster systems.